Milan makes you think of fashion and design more than food. For a celiac, though, it is a very nice surprise: the city has lots of 100% gluten-free places, from bistros to pastry shops, and the local specialty is a risotto. Since many flights and trains arrive in Milan, it is also a good starting point for Lake Maggiore, a little over an hour's drive away.
For general advice (pasta, pizza, supermarkets, useful phrases), read my guide to gluten-free Italy first.
Milanese food: what can you eat?
- Risotto alla milanese (saffron risotto) ✅ check that the stock is gluten-free
- Cassoeula (pork and cabbage stew) ✅ most of the time
- Polenta ✅
- Ossobuco (braised veal shank) ⚠️ the meat is often dusted with flour before browning, ask
- Cotoletta alla milanese (breaded veal chop) 🚫
- Mondeghili (meatballs) 🚫 bread and breadcrumbs
- Panzerotti (fried filled turnovers) 🚫
- Panettone (Christmas sweet bread) 🚫, but supermarkets sell gluten-free panettone at the end of the year
100% gluten-free restaurants
Bistrò, on the way to the Last Supper
This small French-style bistro is entirely gluten-free, and allergens are clearly marked on the menu. It is at the start of Corso Magenta, the street that leads to the Santa Maria delle Grazie church and Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper, about fifteen minutes' walk away: a good stop before or after your visit. The dining room is small, so book, especially if you are more than two. The sign is not very visible from the street, keep your eyes open.
Corso Magenta 9 - metro Cairoli - Google Maps
Risotteria Melotti, to taste a Milanese risotto
As in Rome and Florence, the Milan Risotteria Melotti is 100% gluten-free. The obvious place to try a risotto without worrying about the stock.
Via Privata Sartirana 1 - Google Maps
Linfa, plant-based and gluten-free
A restaurant that is both 100% plant-based and 100% gluten-free, in the Tortona neighborhood, near the Navigli canals.
Via Ambrogio Bergognone 24 - Google Maps
O' Peperino, gluten-free pizza near Garibaldi
This pizzeria has equipment, ovens and fryers dedicated to gluten-free. A good place for pizza in the Porta Garibaldi neighborhood.
Viale Francesco Crispi 2 - Google Maps
Gluten-free bakeries and pastry shops
Officina Zero
An entirely gluten-free bakery and café, with bread, breakfast pastries and pizza. Reviews of the pizza are mixed, but it is a safe place for an Italian breakfast.
Viale Andrea Doria 44 - Google Maps
Pasticceria Navotti Senza Glutine
A 100% gluten-free pastry shop trained by the AIC, the Italian Celiac Association. The place to finally taste Italian pastries without gluten.
Via Giovanni Paisiello 7 - Google Maps
GluFree Bakery
A dedicated gluten-free bakery south of the center, near Porta Romana. Handy to buy fresh bread before a picnic in a park.
Via Curtatone 6 - Google Maps
Milano Senza Glutine, the grocery store
If you have a car, this entirely gluten-free grocery store is in Buccinasco, southwest of Milan. The place to stock up before a stay in a rental, or to bring back products you cannot find at home.
Via della Resistenza 121, Buccinasco - Google Maps
A gluten-free aperitivo
The aperitivo is an institution in Milan: in the early evening, you order a spritz or a negroni, and it comes with snacks, sometimes a whole buffet. Unfortunately, the buffet is usually made of mini pizzas, focaccia and small sandwiches, and everyone uses the same serving spoons.
My advice: ask for a board of cured meats and cheese (tagliere) served separately, and bring your own gluten-free bread or crackers. Spritz, negroni and prosecco are gluten-free. If you need the words to explain it to the waiter, the Italian phrases in my Italy guide will help.
My tips for Milan
- Book, the city is very busy during trade fairs (Fashion Week, the Furniture Fair in April).
- On Sundays and in August, many small shops and restaurants are closed. Check opening hours before you go.
- Groceries: Esselunga and Carrefour supermarkets have big gluten-free aisles, with pasta, bread, frozen pizza and cookies. Stock up before heading to the lakes or the mountains.
- At airports and train stations, gluten-free options can be limited: bring a snack.
Continuing your trip? Read my guides to Venice, Florence and Rome, or head to the mountains in the Dolomites.
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