Gluten-free Dolomites: food, restaurants and a camper van trip

South Tyrolean food: what is gluten-free?

The Dolomites straddle two regions, and the northern part, South Tyrol (Alto Adige in Italian, Südtirol in German), borders Austria. People there speak German as much as Italian, every town has two names (Bolzano is also Bozen), and the food is often closer to Austria than to Italy. Many typical dishes contain gluten, like canederli (bread dumplings) or strudel, but here is a list of dishes that are usually gluten-free (as always, watch out for cross-contamination):

• Gröstl (Greaschtl in the local dialect): pan-fried beef and potatoes
• Sautéed potatoes with bacon and egg
• Asparagus risotto (like my green asparagus risotto recipe, in French)
• Asparagus with Bozner sauce, a local egg sauce
• Cured meats: try the speck, the local smoked ham!
• Many local cheeses, often flavored with herbs

If you love cheese, you can follow the cheese route through the Dolomites. For wine lovers, the South Tyrol wine route at the bottom of the Bolzano valley is a great food itinerary too.

In German-speaking places, gluten-free is glutenfrei. In Italian, it is senza glutine. Both are understood everywhere.

Van life: the good gluten-free life

Renting a camper van is very popular for holidays in the Dolomites. I wanted to try it because the weather can be unpredictable at that time of year. Without bookings, it is easier to change valleys and follow the sun.

I loved my van holiday, and found lots of advantages for a gluten-free diet:

• I could shop in a big town where I found plenty of gluten-free products
• I could cook every evening and even at lunch, while spending little on food
• I cooked with a view of the mountains 🏔️
• I built up a big stock of gluten-free food without having to carry it around. I even brought delicious Italian gluten-free pasta back to France.

Gluten-free restaurants and shops

Although I cooked gluten-free pasta in the van for most of my meals, I spotted a few gluten-free places in the region. I added more in 2026, in valleys I did not have time to visit.

Bolzano

• Walther's, on Piazza Walther, for gluten-free pizza. The dough is homemade and prepared separately.
• Nennè, another Bolzano pizzeria with gluten-free pizza (Piazza Alto Adige 1), which I have not tried
• GlutenFreeWorld (Viale Druso 82) to buy unique gluten-free products, fresh and frozen (a bit pricey though)
• Acherer (Via Leonardo da Vinci 1/D): a pastry shop with gluten-free cakes and chocolates, including a buckwheat cake, the house specialty. There is no dedicated gluten-free menu, ask at the counter.

Val di Fassa

• A restaurant with allergens marked on the menu: Le Giare in Pozza di Fassa (Piaza del Malghèr 20), with wood-fired pizza and gluten-free dishes. It closes between seasons, check the dates before you go.
• In the same village, the L Malgher pastry shop also has gluten-free cakes.

Val Gardena

• Ristorante Freina (Strada Freina 23a, Selva): a dedicated gluten-free menu, with pasta and a salad bar.
• Ristorante Pizzeria Pranives (Selva): gluten-free dishes are marked on the menu, and you can ask for gluten-free pasta, ravioli or gnocchi.
• Café-Pizzeria Tennis (Ortisei): one of the few pizzerias in the valley making gluten-free pizza, with gluten-free beer too. Careful, the base is baked in the same oven as regular pizzas (on a tray), not ideal for celiacs.

Cortina d'Ampezzo, Bressanone and Merano

• Al Passetto (Via Marconi 8, Cortina): a pizzeria and restaurant recommended by celiacs.
• Brauerei Harpf (Bressanone, also called Brixen): a brewery restaurant with gluten-free pizza, burgers, desserts and beer.
• Soulfood (Via Piave 50, Merano): a pizzeria with gluten-free pizza and desserts, and staff who know what they are doing.

I have not tried any of the places in Val Gardena, Cortina, Bressanone or Merano: call before you go, and ask about cross-contamination.

Grocery shopping

You will find gluten-free pasta, bread and cookies in any supermarket. Even in a small Dolomites village, I found frozen gluten-free tiramisu and delicious gnocchi.

For more advice, read my guide to gluten-free Italy and my Lake Maggiore guide, another northern Italian region that is very friendly to celiacs.